Autumn in July

We have had little rain and record heat this summer. As a result, the birch trees are shedding their leaves. They were yellow for a short time and are now brown. There are several fires in the Dalarna County area and little fire fighting equipment. Neighboring countries are sending in their planes and helicopters, but it is not enough. Sweden normally has wet summers, so they are ill prepared for a fire season like this one.

Trees sending their strength to the roots
by sacrificing their leaves

Typical scene along the
roads as we travel. All
the deciduous trees are
browning.

All over the Stockholm area there are
these community gardens. We have never
stopped to look at one, but this is near our
apartment, so Olivia wanted to take a look.

Due to the heat and lack of rain, some have
let their gardens go, so there are bare spots and
weeds. Many are using the water hoses to keep
their plots alive, however.

 

Out our back door onto the
deck. We got a good rain on
Saturday, so everything was
wet and smelled clean.

Much of the week was spent in preparing the apartment where our replacements will be living. We moved in some furniture and did a little repair work, though not much was needed. I have to admit, we moved a little slowly because the heat and humidity suck the energy from us. They will have a nice apartment to live in when they arrive, I think. One problem is that there is not a fan to be purchased in the entire country. Due to the unprecedented heat the stores and their warehouses are sold out. Hopefully, we will find something in the next few days.

Replacing the water
deflector at the bottom
of the shower.

Building a shelf unit for
the bathroom area

Pretty modern kitchen

The amazing Ford van with a desk, a return, a recliner and an
office chair, along with bags and boxes filled with items to take
to the new apartment

We took pictures of what
the landlord left, for future
reference, when the apartment
has to be returned.

We ate our lunch on their patio, just to test
their patio furniture :) 

We got the good news that the Clouses, who will take over our assignments, and the Baileys, who will replace the Hales in the office, have both received their visas, so we won't have to train via Skype or with pages of notes. It was a great relief because the visas for the young missionaries and for the Records Preservation couple are about 8 weeks behind, so far, and still no visas.

We were invited to share dinner with the Jonas and Anne-Lise Sjögren family. Jonas is our Elders' Quorum President and Anne-Lise is a counselor in the Relief Society. We had not met their children, so we were happy to meet Rebekka and Alexander, who are still at home. Their other four children are grown and out of the house. We had heard of Smörgåstårta, but had never had the opportunity to try it. Literally translated, it is sandwich cake. It is a savory cake with layers of bread, mayonnaise, and various kinds of fillings such as liverwurst, shrimp, salmon, or chicken. It it decoratively topped with the kinds of food that sets the theme. They had made two massive smörgåstårtor. One was chicken and turkey, the other was seafood and fish. They were delicious both to look at and to taste.

Anne-Lise, Jonas and Rebekka. The smörgåstårta on the left was Rebekka's creation. It is decorated with strips of smoked
salmon, caviar, garnish and sliced tomatoes topped with slices of boiled egg. Anne-Lise's creation is decorated with turkey
slices, tomatoes, and mandarin oranges, sprinkled with garnish. It was almost a shame to cut into them.

Since we would be traveling to Uppsala anyway, we decided to make a day of it and catch up on some of the apartment inspections. We started in Borlänge which is in Dalarna County and close to the fires. Then went back to Uppsala to see the missionaries whom we see every Sunday, but rarely see their apartments.

The fires were close to Borlänge, and we could see smoke coming from the forests in the distance. The sky was hazy from the smoke, much like Nevada during the fire seasons. The missionaries were happy and working hard. They had several investigators and are popular in the neighborhood,especially with the children, it seems. Elder Peterson, who helped us move into the new apartment in Jakobsberg some months ago is there with a relatively new companion, Elder Whitaker.

After inspecting the
apartment and bikes
outside the apartment.
Elders Whitaker and
Peterson.

The Dalahäst is the symbol of this part of
Sweden

Dalarna still has beautiful skies and scenery.
This is on the other side, away from the smoky
haze.

The sisters in Uppsala seemed a little lethargic, so Olivia asked them if they were sleeping well. They have a fan, but hadn't opened a window because they are on the first floor and it didn't seem safe. Thus, they were not sleeping well, or often at all. She showed them that their windows opened two different ways, one of which would allow an air flow without sacrificing safety. They looked much more rested on Sunday. Despite their weariness, they still had a very clean apartment and gave us cookies. They are a group of faithful, thoughtful missionaries.

Sisters Chapdelaine, Jones and Bingham

The elders didn't want to open their windows, either, thinking that the air was cooler inside than outside, which is often true, but when there is shade, or the sun is not shining directly onto a surface such as a wall, the air is actually cool. Their apartment was cleaner than we have ever seen that apartment. It was obvious that they wanted it clean and that they keep it clean.

Elders Dawson and Jordan

We now give the bikes a thorough
inspection and oil the chains.

Driving home we found ourselves on a road that we seldom travel. The sight of the Dom Kyrka gave us a pang of homesickness at the thought of leaving this place. It is the symbol of Uppsala and is visible from all around the area.

The towering Dom Kyrka and the
sign at the border of the city at 9:00
PM. The pastels in the sky denote
a sunset that was to the right of
this picture.

These mile markers are found from time
to time along the road. This one has the
symbol of King Gustav II Adolf, but may
be from a later time. It says Uppsala
Stad Gränd (Uppsala City boundary)

Sunday we said goodbye to some of the Uppsala Ward members who will not be here for the next two Sundays. The Burmans invited us to dinner, but Olivia convinced them to come to our apartment, instead. Because of the rain on the previous day, the air was cool and not too windy, so we were able to eat out on the covered part of the deck. They have been such good friends to us. Sol-Brit has especially been a good friend to Olivia. They share handicraft items and recipes, stories and just a lot of friend talk. Tore is good to the bone. He is a retired dentist who is deeply committed to the principles of the Book of Mormon and the temple. He often leads the singing and has a voice that carries into the halls. We love them both very much.

Torsten Hernon wanted a picture with us.

Jonas was the only
member of his family
at church Sunday. They
will be traveling to
Norway, so this was the
last time we will see him.

Tore and Sol-Brit Burman with us on the deck for dinner.

We have a full week ahead and look forward to it. Olivia's sister Jennifer and her daughter, Jessica will join us today until Thursday. On Saturday we welcome the Clouses to Sweden. We are excited and busy.

Farewell to Norrland

We have never seen Norrland in the "high season," in other words during the part of summer when things are open and available. We were especially anxious to see a couple of the church towns when cottages might be open. We also wanted to see the fortress set up for defense in WWI, WWII and the Cold War. We got permission from the mission president to take a few extra days in connection with the zone conference to see parts of the north that we had not seen before, so we left Monday for a week away.

Monday, much of Thursday, Friday and Saturday were work days, where we took care of mission responsibilities. Tuesday, Wednesday and part of Thursday were days of exploring and sight seeing.

As we traveled, we noticed that the roadside was covered with wild flowers. Lengthy patches, at first, then long stretches and fields covered with them. The flowers seemed to be mostly the tall plants with violet/pink blossoms, but mixed with a variety of other flowers that created gigantic bouquets.

Small patches to begin with

Sorry we don't know
the name  of this
beauty.

Then larger

Farmers would leave patches when mowing
for passers by to enjoy

Butterflys  appreciated
them as well

A bouquet that stretched for several meters

Add trees and lakes for a breath-taking effect

A forest carpet of different species

The purple looked like
clover blossoms, but the
plants did not.

Lots of daisies, too.

Lots of butterflies, as the windshield
on the car could attest

It was quite warm for most of the trip. In fact, the further north we traveled, the hotter it became. The result was a sky filled with beautiful cloud formations that Olivia could not resist trying to capture.

Some had dark bellies, but we got little rain

Along with the clouds there were literally
hundreds of camp trailers being pulled
by cars. It's July which means that every-
one goes on vacation; mostly to the north

Some filled the sky with all kinds of shapes.
The road sign is typical from north to south.
It is a warning sign with the image of a moose.

Some looked like dollops
of whipping cream

We visited two church towns on our way. The first was just outside of Skellefteå, in a little village called Lövånger. Here the cottages are all either rented out or are owned privately. What was unique about this church town, is that they have preserved the stables. These are not the large barns that we are used to in the states, The town also had moved a farmhouse onto the property and have turned it into a museum.

Most items in the museum were
from the 18th and 19th centuries

This boy is a bit autistic and was quite a challenge for his mother. He had to handle everything, including items that were supposed to be "hands off." But, it did allow us to see how this worked, if just a little faster than normal.

Musical instruments from the time

One room was converted into a typical classroom

Some handicrafts from the period.

This is the inside of one of the small stables

Our young guide showed us to the stables

The key that opens the locks on all the doors

Typical rows of the cottages. 116 in all in Lövånger

A bird on the roof of a typical cottage

The church was preserved in this village. It was closed, unfortunately.

The other church town we visited was one we have visited, before. It is in Gamelstad Luleå. The town of Luleå began here, probably in the 1300s, but in the 17th century, by decree of the king, was removed to its current location, about 8 kilometers, next to the River. It is the largest of the 16 preserved church towns in Sweden with 424 cottages and a church that was dedicated in 1492. The cottages were either closed or privately owned, except one. Several are being renovated due to natural decay in the wood, but the intent is to use the tools and methods of the time to reconstruct the ones in need of repair.

The bell tower of the old church

The verbiage on the tower says, "Deo Gloria" or Glory to God

The church that was dedicated in 1492. Despite the reformation,
it remained heavily Catholic. The inscriptions on the outside are
all in Latin

Another cock on the roof

The stone walls were much higher
and thicker at one time. This gate
and the walls provided protection
from invasion, most likely from
Russia.

The elaborate pulpit

Ceiling and walls have paintings from
the prolific painter, Albertus Pictor

A typical cabin where two families would have stayed with a
common wall in between.

A well with a derrick and
boom to lift out the water

Inside the cottage included beds, clothing

and other period articles.

While all this was in one room, we were
told that this was one of the largest cottages

The cottages are all in rows like this one. Between the rows are
roads. Most are paved, but a few, like this one are simply grass.

This is the storehouse that at one time
was a tithing house. 1/10th of the harvest
was stored here for the use of the Church

Inside the storehouse is now an arts
and crafts shop. Artists take
turns manning the store.

We have only found one nativity scene made by Swedes in the
entire country, so when we saw this, we had to buy one. These
are the artists (husband and wife) who made them and several
other items that are for sale, there.

We had heard of the amazing waterfalls in the north, so we stopped to see them. In fact the name, Storforsen, really describes what it is - big rapids. It was frighteningly majestic and beautiful at the same time.

The pictures, including the videos don't do it justice. It is dramatic!

We wanted to see Jokkmokk, a city in Lappland that is just beyond the Arctic Circle. You would think that if we are beyond the Arctic Circle we would be seeing snow, igloos and sled dogs, but that was not the case. In fact, it was quite warm, sunny, and the ground was covered with grass and wild flowers.

Just to prove we were there.

There is no US flag and I'm not saluting.
I'm shading my eyes - I didn't know I
would be in the photo. The line of flags
marks the line of the Circle.

Interesting information about why it is called the Arctic Circle

 The museum in Jokkmokk is dedicated to the history of the Sami people. The Sami are native to Sweden, Norway and Finland. For centuries, they have lived with and even managed the herds of reindeer. Today, there are technically no wild reindeer as they are all owned by Sami families. They are allowed to graze in the forests and on public lands, however, so it is still exciting to see one in the wild. In the summer they are much farther north and in the forests, so we didn't see any. The Sami now have special recognition, but at one time were an oppressed people. Their traditional way of life has all but disappeared as they logically prefer living and working indoors to living in tents or small log shelters, so very few live out in the wild today.

To follow the riendeer
herd, they used a tent
called a lavvu, which is
similar to a teepee, but
made of a water-resistant
fabric.

Inside the lavvu

Though the costumes
changed from time to
time. The basic style
remained. Note the
cradle board.

The hunting costume.
That is a duck on his
head. They were quite
skilled at tanning.

Reindeer hides are quite important

Various items of wood
and bone to harness and
use reindeer.

A cradle board up close

One of the displays outside the museum.
This is a peat house called a goahti. It
would have been used as a more permanent
home. These actually became popular with
the back-to-earth movement of the 1960s
and 1970s. 

Inside the goahti. This
one was actually built in
1972, so it has a wood floor
and a wood stove.

A photograph of a goahti in the 1800s.

The ropes they used to lasso the reindeer are of leather and the hondo is made of reindeer horn and looks like a figure 8. It seems to work as the Sami herders can rope a hoof and bring in the deer while on foot or skis.

We did have to get some souveniers in Jokkmokk. Of course, the handmade, good stuff was expensive and impossible to bring home, but we wanted to remember this place.

The town has a church that is in the fashion of the turn of the 19th to 20th century. In fact, it was built in the 1890s.

The lattice and multiple arched windows
give it away as the late 1800s.

It is quite charming and majestic. It is still used every Sunday
and for community events.

Inside the chapel

The christening font

And organ loft

Another place I have wanted to visit in the summer is Rödbergsfortet (literally red mountain fortress). It has been in use since pre-WWI and was improved and renovated for WWII and the Cold War. With nuclear missiles and advanced bombs, it became obsolete and was no longer in use after the late 1980s. It was a highly secret facility as were the five or more fortresses surrounding it. There is a big sign stating that foreigners are not welcome past the gate. Because of Sweden's neutrality, it has never been used. Of course, its presence has helped to maintain Sweden's neutrality.

Through the gate and inside the fortress walls

Amazingly, this was dug without the
use of power tools or earth-moving
equipment. Wheelbarrows and hammers.

One of the closed off'
walls.

 Some of the rooms and displays inside the tunnels of the fortress.

Infirmary beds

Dentist lab

Readiness wall

Part of the kitchen

Mess hall

Communications room

Wash room

Ammo for the various weapons they used

Mortar and mortar shell

For protection in case the fortress was
overrun by an enemy.

Cannon shells were placed on
this elevator

and received here where
they were loaded into the
cannons

The cannons could be adjusted up or
down; right or left to fire.

There are several cannons along the hill top

It is a commanding view of the entire area. To the right is a sister
fortress that could direct cannon fire.

 While we were on top of the fortress, the sound of heavy machine gun fire and small arms could be heard, which seemed appropriate at the moment (there is a shooting range below the fort).

We stopped in Boden to eat at Suzy Qs, an American-themed restaurant that had its walls covered with license plates from all over the US, old movie, Coca Cola and Vargas pin-up posters from the 1950s and 1960s. The hamburgers were so juicy and full that I had to cut it before I could pick it up to eat it. We ate with rock 'n roll being played in the background.

On the right, next to the train station

Juicy burger; tons of fries

Olivia next to one of
the walls

Jammin in the corner.

Other things we have enjoyed as we have traveled to and throughout Norrland include the trucks carrying loads of logs that are stacked in huge piles along the E4. The lumber industry is big. It appears that they clear cut and replant.

We stayed at the Scandic, a hotel that is kind of a Holiday Inn, with a breakfast buffet consisting of so many items, it would be impossible to list them. I was up until after midnight and Luleå is only a couple of hours from the Arctic Circle, so I took a picture to show how light it is at midnight.

The parking lot of Scandic in Luleå
at midnight.

We had enough membership points
for a free night and a complimentary
bag of superb chocolates. Happily, Olivia
is not a big fan of chocolate...

Typical Scandic wallpaper 

The carpet has a mock
map of the E4 and images
of what each town has to
offer along the way.

The crew of the Google Street View camera
car stayed in the same hotel. We also saw them
a couple of times as we traveled the roads.

Nothing to do with Scandic, but we had
to have a Max Lyx Shake.

We also got to do what we enjoy most - working with the young missionaries. We spent Monday moving the furniture and other items out of the Sundsvall apartment that is closing. Some went to the second hand store, but most went to a family in the branch with 7 children. They are adding on to their home and needed all we could give them. Win, win situation.

Elders Nelson and Black were willing
to take things they could use.

Brother Stegeby and his daughter came to help carry things to
the trailer they rented for the occasion.

We returned to the elders' apartment on Saturday because we discovered that one of their bikes was missing a front light. We bought a light set at Biltema, a store that has practically everything you need.
When we started to attach it I noticed that the wires to the the dynamo for the front light of the other bike were severed, so while Olivia attached the light to one, I tried to repair the other.

Zone conference was a special time. It will probably be our last, so President Youngberg had us bear our testimonies along with the other missionaries from the zone who will be leaving at the end of the month. As usual, I got choked up and couldn't speak for several seconds. Olivia can speak despite being emotional.

We provide the lunch for
the Norrland Zone Conference
and do the cleanup
afterward.

Olivia directing missionaries
to the room where clothes
left behind by departed
missionaries are available

With Sisters Nielsen
and Johnson

Sisters Smiley and
Back (from Finland)

Sisters Kenworthy and Cook

We brought the shoes
Elder Jarman left at the
mission office when he
was a POE. "But these
are not my shoes!"

Elders Steele and Thompson relieving their
apartment of Book of Mormons in languages
they will never use. Our van is full of books.

Then on our way home, we stopped in Gävle to do an apartment inspection with the elders. They were prepared for us. The apartment was among the cleanest we have seen. We did a little repair work on their cupboard doors and oiled their bike chains. Then made the journey home.

Elders Tolman and Ashford earned their ice cream bars!

There were lots of investigators in church, yesterday including a family from Ethiopia and Elsa brought a close friend, Maria.

One of the souvenirs we bought was a little book about the paintings of Albertus Pictor, which features two of the churches that are close to Upplands Vasby. One we have tried to visit before, but it is never open. We tried the other on our way home from church, yesterday. It was open and there was a man who wore a Swedish Church polo shirt and spoke English who welcomed us and allowed us in.

Odensala is on the road to Märsta 

Built in the 12th century and enlarged
over the years. Pictor would have painted
the walls in the 15th century

The crucifix is from
the 14th century. The
Christ figure alone is
about 6' tall.

The Egyptian chariots
are submerged by the
Red Sea

Moses with the serpent on a pole with
the people being bitten by the real serpents

The organ loft

Satan attempting to
temp Christ. "Turn
these stones to bread"

An old hearse was in the open garage next to
the church.

 




It has been a very full and eventful week for us. We hope your week is filled with friends, family and the certain knowledge that you have a loving and understanding Father who sent His only begotten son to bless and redeem us.